Post by sherrylynne on Mar 25, 2010 21:44:20 GMT -5
Ok. If you are cutting them this big [ ], try cutting them this big [ ]. Use a chef's knife. It's really handy! Might seem to big for the job, but they work well You need to have them small enough that they don't have to chew them as of yet, just swallowing them whole is good. Chewing will come later.
Post by sherrylynne on Mar 29, 2010 19:01:50 GMT -5
Hey, it happens. Not to worry So glad they eating small chunks! And yes- best to limit your contact with them if you can. You can never be certain if it's an actual rhinovirus(cold), which they cannot catch, or a very mild case of the influenza virus(flu), which can make them very ill! Just do lots of hand washing, and try not to sneeze on them
Hehe, I love it! It's so much bigger than I expected it to be! :3 I can't wait to sew the interior parts.
Although I am having a few problems. ): First of all, I think they're getting diarrhea. Does the raw meat diet usually make stools softer or something? Also, now their litter training is totally gone >_____< They're going all over the bottom pan of the cage.
Post by sherrylynne on Apr 2, 2010 17:50:14 GMT -5
First, the diarrhea. Until they are taking in bone regularly, their stools will be a LOT softer, almost runny. Try powdering up some eggshell(I use a clean coffee grinder), and putting about 1tbsp per 8 oz of meat. Mix it in well, and give it to them with that. Just rinse out the eggshells and let them dry completely. Some people don't eat eggs, so you can use calcium tablets if you don't, but I'm not sure of the dosage. Someone might be able to answer that in general question in the nutrition section. As for the pooping, not uncommon with a new cage. Just put up the middle ramp to confine them to one level for now, and take out the platform. Cover the entire bottom with fabric, towels, what have you. On that one level, they get a sleepy sack, or sleeping den, water, food, and litter box. Since most ferrets won't poop on fabric, they use the box. Once they are reliably using that, add a hammock. If they keep using the box, add the platform, again covered. Tie stuffed animals in the corners if you need to. You might also have to drill a couple holes in the litter box so you can anchor it in one spot so they can't move it. Again, as they prove reliable, open the ramp to the second level, without the platform, and just repeat the process. Make sure you clean all messes as promptly as you can, and as thoroughly as you can. You might wind up with some protest poops for a few days(on the fabric). Just switch it out, and put in new. Keep at it, and they'll get the idea. Every time you see them backing up, not in the box, open the cage and put them in the box, but don't bring them out when they do. You don't want them learning pooping out of the box gets them out of cage time If they have "oopsies" at any point, go back a step. The entire process may only take a few days, or with some more stubborn brats, it can take a few weeks(read my Boris ), but they will finally get it if you persist. Good luck!
Ah, okay! That makes so much sense that it's more watery. I just wanted to check that that was normal though. I mean, they're still eating, drinking, and acting fine, but i just wanted to check a trip to the vet wasn't in order! I'll have to check with my mom if we have a coffee grinder!
As for the cage training, that makes SO much sense @___@ They won't go in the top level of the FN at all, but the right half of the bottom level is a mess! I'll be sure to put bunches of old towels and the like down there to discourage them from going into anywhere but where I have the box.
Thus far to clean up messes I've been using a mixture of water and vinegar, in hopes that it'll help remove smell (even if it adds a new one! )
I just bought a bunch of fabric to make a bedding set for the cage, so hopefully I can crank that out and get lots of nice bedding in there
Post by sherrylynne on Apr 4, 2010 10:38:58 GMT -5
That's wonderful! Hopefully, by now, you are past the contagious stage of your bug, so you can go full bore with their diet Once they get so they are eating pieces about 1 inch square, you can start introducing another meat. Just be sure to cut the new meat a bit smaller than the chicken, and mix it in well, so the chicken flavours it. Since ferrets are basically lazy by nature, they "should" have no problem with the new meat, since they don't have to chew it as much
Post by sherrylynne on Apr 4, 2010 19:33:03 GMT -5
CGH works well for introducing bone, so why not? You can give them the wing tips to intro the bone, and chop up the rest of the bird for meat. Basically, anything you can name as meat works well, as long as it's not treated, like ham, bacon, etc. We'll want them on a very minimum of 3 different proteins, preferably a lot more.
It really depends on the type of oil(they can't digest plant protein), and eggs, I'd keep to a maximum of 1-2 a week per ferret. I use fish oil(salmon), and they get maybe 1/2 tsp every 2nd or 3rd day. It can interfere with their poops(too loose) when they have too much. And until they are eating enough actual bone, their poops are going to be loose anyway. And yes- the sooner they are introduced to new meats, the better. But always introduce them one at a time. That way, you'll know if they have a problem with one. My Athena can't eat beef- she upchucks it every time. And too much chicken gives Boris yellow seedy poops. He can't digest it very well.